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Bulletin#: 74 Gen-3
Date: Nov. 27, 1972
Bike(s) affected: S2, H1, H2
Subject: New brake pad with shim to eliminate squeal or howling

Action taken:

Disc pad "A," that moves with the caliper, has been redesigned. Old pad, part #43050-001, is no longer used. New pad, part #43050-002, with shim, #43076-001, should be used. This new pad is factory installed on frame number S2T-00001, KAF-58413, H2F-10491, and up.

Bulletin#: 73 Gen-4
Date: Jan. 24, 1973
Bike(s) affected: H1-B, H1-D, H2, S2-A, F11, Z1
Subject: Axle clamps and speedometer cable

Action taken:

Reminder to mount front axle clamps so that there is no gap at the front of the bike, and an even gap toward the rear. On the S2-A it is recommended that the speedometer gearbox be positioned to point back at the cylinder head before the nuts are tightened. S2T-0931 and up has a spot of yellow paint on the speedometer gearbox and the left hand outer fork tube to aid alignment. Once positioned, the front nut is tightened first, then the rear, both to 14 ft lb.

Bulletin#: 73 Gen-5
Date: Jun. 21, 1973
Bike(s) affected: All
Subject: Oil pump lockplate

Action taken:

PROBLEM: There has been a tendency for the oil pump banjo bolts to loosen.  This allows oil to leak into the side cover instead of into the intended cylinder, resulting in overheating and seizure.

CORRECTION: To correct the problem a new lock plate/gasket (P/N 92024-058) has been designed to keep the three outlet banjo bolts from loosening.  This gasket has been used on all S and H series from S1E-10965, S2E-41105, KAE-83625, H2E-30126 and up.

The lockplate replaces the top gasket washers and should be torqued to 24 kg-cm (20 lb in).

Bulletin#: Gen-9
Date: Sept. 10, 1973
Bike(s) affected: H2
Subject: Oil pump adjustment

Action taken:

PROBLEM: Some mechanics think that the adjustment of the oil pump control lever is "subject to tuning" for special conditions or to offset other problems.  IMPORTANT: There have been only two cases where Kawasaki specified a nonstandard pump setting because of over oiling: 1. The original H1 oil pump, which is not marked on the lever. (H-1-2 Sept 9, 1969).  2. The original F5 oil pump, marked "F5" on the control lever.

On later production models, reduced output oil pumps have been incorporated.  These later oil pumps must be adjusted in the normal "MATCH-MARKS" manner to prevent overheating, early wear, and potential piston seizure.

All Kawasaki 2 stroke motorcycles use either SUPERLUBE, or INJECTOLUBE systems.  The oil is pumped to the engine at a specific rate determined by a combination of RPM and throttle opening.

Each model has a pump specifically designed to supply adequate oil flow to the engine without causing excessive smoke or fouling plugs.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:  All oil pumps are adjusted only after the carburetor is properly adjusted.  With the throttle fully closed, the mark on the oil pump lever should align with the mark on the oil pump body just as the throttle valve starts to open in the carburetor.

OIL PUMP IDENTIFICATION

Bulletin#: 73 Gen-10
Date: Sept. 20, 1973
Bike(s) affected: All
Subject: Oil tank vent tube routing

Action taken:

PROBLEM: If the oil tank vent tube becomes pinched, a vacuum is created in the oil tank which does not allow the oil pump to deliver oil. 

SOLUTION: Careful routing of the oil tank vent tube so that it cannot be pinched or melted will ensure that the lubrication system functions properly.  Also, if the oil tank cap is replaced on a model which has no vent tube, the replacement cap must have a vent hole.  Note: The H1B and H1C have unvented caps and cannot be used on H1 and H1A.

S1,S2,S3: Bring the vent tube back over the frame tube and along the rear fender to the left side of the motorcycle.  Run the tube forward under the rectifier and insert the end into the LH engine cover.

H1D,H1E: Run the vent tube forward from the oil tank and down between the air cleaner and battery to the left side of the motorcycle.  Feed the tube into the hole in the LH engine cover.

H2: Allow the vent tube to arc gently down behind the oil tank and feed the end through the rubber guide near the bottom of the rear fender.

Bulletin#: 74 Gen-13
Date: Feb. 15, 1974
Bike(s) affected: All
Subject: Tires

Action taken:

Tread pattern was changed for 1974 model year.  Photos included in bulletin.

Bulletin#: 74 Gen-16
Date: Oct. 30, 1974
Bike(s) affected: H1, H2, S3
Subject: Fork disassembly

Action taken:
The fork damper cylinder cap on 1974 models is not machined to accept the fork cylinder holding tool used in prior years.  Caps in 1975 models will accept the holding tool.  This bulletin suggests removal of the allen bolt before any other disassembly.  Fork spring tension on the cap should prevent rotation.  The use of a 12 point 1/2" socket with appropriate extension may be required as a substitute for the holding tool.  Three pages with illustrations are included.

Bulletin#: 74 Gen-17
Date: Dec. 06, 1974
Bike(s) affected: H1D, H2A, S2A, Z1
Subject: Fork noise

Action taken:
Owners have reported an occasional clunking noise from the front forks when the front wheel hits a rough break in the riding surface, such as a hole in the pavement, railroad crossing, or driveway entrance.  The noise is NOT caused by any loose, broken or defective front end components.  It is caused by the fork oil flow characteristics thru the damper cylinders during short, rapid fork strokes.  New style fork damper cylinders were developed to eliminate the noise and improve performance in 1974 models.
 

Bulletin#: 2/Gen-2

Date: Apr 23, 1976
Bike(s) affected: All 1976 models
Subject: Sparkplugs

Action taken:

With the 1976 model year, different spark plugs were specified for several models.  The change was from an NGK competition type electrode to an NGK standard type electrode.  Both have a copper cored center for a wide operating heat range.  The number designation on the plug tells which type electrode the plug has.  The "C" in B9HCS indicates competition electrode.  B9HS does not have competition electrode.  The "S" in both numbers indicate copper core.  The competition electrode is slightly more recessed than standard.  The NGK standard plug may be substituted for an competition electrode plug if the heat range is the same.

Bulletin#: 2/Gen-3
Date: Apr. 23, 1976
Bike(s) affected: All
Subject: Brake lever adjustment

Action taken:

FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT

On all hydraulic disc brake systems, lever or pedal free play is adjustable.  Free play is necessary to insure that the master cylinder piston returns to its rest position.  If the piston does not return all the way, it may not uncover the relief port.  This could cause the brake to drag by not completely relieving fluid pressure in the system.

INSUFFICIENT FREE PLAY MAY CAUSE BRAKE DRAG

The front brake lever rests against an eccentric cam pin on the end of the adjusting bolt.  Turning the bolt moves the cam pin, which changes the lever's rest position and free play.

If the locknut is run all the way back to the adjusting bolt's head, and the bolt is turned all the way up into the master cylinder body, the lever may rest against the bolt's threads instead of the cam pin.  This will hold the lever away from its correct rest position, which could keep the master cylinder piston from uncovering the relief port.

Bulletin#: 2/ Gen-6
Date: May 06, 1977
Bike(s) affected: All
Subject: Brake pad shim installation

Action taken:

The brake pad shim loads the trailing edge of the pad to help prevent brake squeal.  Installed incorrectly, the shim will cause excessive squeal.  Shims should be installed behind pad "A" toward the front of the motorcycle.

Bulletin#: 2/Gen-7
Date: Jul. 8, 1978
Bike(s) affected: All
Subject: Exhaust  stud replacement

Action taken:

Exhaust studs,  particularly on rubber mount engines, are subjected to extreme forces during high engine rpm.  Under these conditions the studs may become overstressed and break.  The factory has designed new higher strength chrome moly studs for greater durability.
 

Note: Do not over tighten rear muffler mountings on motorcycles with rubber mounted engines.

Bulletin#: H-1-2
Date: Sept. 9, 1969
Bike(s) affected: H1
Subject: Oil Pump Adjustment

Action taken:

With the H1 it is necessary to adjust the oil pump so that it starts to open when the slides have been raised 1/8 inch. Sometimes the inner cable is too short to allow this. The lock nut from the adjuster for the oil pump can be placed on the opposite side of the holder to gain clearance.  If this is still not enough, the retaining tab on the pump can be ground away and a new tab made from cutting and bending the pump's plate.

Bulletin#: Emergency Bulletin #2
Date: December 8, 1969
Bike(s) affected: A-series, H1
Subject: CDI spark plugs

Action taken:

Some of the A-series and H-1 models have been shipped from the factory with the incorrect spark plug installed. Champion L-19V may be installed, which can cause hard starting. The correct plug is the Champion UL-19V surface gap plug with Booster Gap.

Bulletin#: 73 H-1
Date: Jul. 14, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H1
Subject: Replacing plain 6mm exhaust flange stud with stepped 6mm x 8mm stud

Action taken:

H1's before engine #03138 must continue to use 6mm stud, part #172G0622, as these cylinders have helical threaded inserts. H1's after engine #03138 must use 6mm x 8mm stepped stud, part #172G0822.

Bulletin#: 73 H-2
Date: Jan. 14, 1970
Bike(s) affected: H-1
Subject: High Tension Wiring Kit

Action taken:

A redesigned ignition wire assembly has been issued using Furukawa instead of Daichi ignition wires, and a redesigned oil pump cover. (The "high" oil pump cover.) The installation was begun after engine #8800, but the pump cover did not incorporate a drain grommet until #`11300. The part number for the replacement kit is #99990-015. The parts replaced are as follows:

Bulletin#: 73 H-3
Date: Aug 1, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H1
Subject: Q-D rotor and dist. for H1

Action taken:

Removing the distributor rotor from an H1 has been a time consuming job, because he mechanic must first take off the right engine cover to get at the screw holding the rotor to the distributor shaft. We have also had some difficulty with arcing from the rotor tip to the attaching screw.

There are two different corrective measures for this problem:

All H1's before engine #8801:

These units have the early distributor shaft and black rotor which is secured by a bolt and lock plate. The heavy duty (H.D.) rotor made of brown plastic should be used for repair. This rotor is held on the distributor shaft by a spring clip and pressure from the center brush in the distributor cap. Installation is as shown below:

(Two image, plus these captions)

Removing black rotor:
Break off the rotor arm on the same side as the bolt. Crack and remove the insulator disc. Take out the bolt with a 7mm wrench.

Installing brown rotor"
Fit a new disc. Align the H.D. rotor tip 1/4 turn to the right of the flat on the shaft, and then push it on.

All H1's after engine #8800:

These later units incorporate a new green rotor and quick-detach distributor shaft. The shaft is fitted with a snap-ring that retains an internal groove in the rotor. The hole in the insulating disc is increased from 28mm I.D. to 31mm I.D. because the green rotor has a larger diameter sleeve. Removal and installation of the new rotor is shown below:

(Two image, plus these captions)

To remove:
Turn the rotor so it points as shown. (Back is toward the oil pump) Pry on opposite sides of the rotor with two large screwdrivers and it will pop off.

To install:
Align the rotor tip with the flat on the shaft. Tap the rotor with a plastic mallet. You should hear a definite SNAP when the rotor groove engages the shaft's snap ring. Make sure the rotor is fully engaged with the snap ring before installing the distributor cap, or else the rotor will back out and damage the cap.

New Gasket:
Kawasaki has a new gasket to improve the sealing of the distributor chamber. It fits between the engine cover and insulator disc, and was incorporated on H1's after engine #11300.

 

Installation of new parts in early H1: To install the new distributor shaft in an H1 before E #8800, order the necessary parts and proceed as follows:

a. Shift the transmission to 4th or 5th gear and turn the rear wheel until the right piston is at TDC. Remove the oil pump cover and take off the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointing to the T-zone on the right engine cover.

b. Unfasten the oil pump from the right engine cover by removing the two screws. Take out the 12 screws holding the right engine cover to the crankcase. Take off the kickstart lever, and then remove the engine cover.

c. Inside the engine cover-remove the nut, lockwasher, and flat washer from the distributor shaft. Pull the drive gear off the shaft- pull the dowel pin out of the shaft with a pair of side cutters, and then withdraw the distributor shaft from it's bearings.

d. Insert the new distributor shaft into the bearings. Push the dowel pin into the shaft, and then install the drive gear with the collar facing the bearing. Secure the gear with the flat washer, lockwasher, and nut.

e. Install the gasket and insulator disc in the engine cover. Wipe a thin film of grease on the snap ring, then use a plastic mallet to install the rotor on the shaft.

f. Ascertain that the right piston is still at TDC. Fit the right engine cover to the crankcase while turning the rotor to mesh the drive gears. After pushing the right engine cover fully onto the case, the rotor tip should point to the T-zone on the cover. NOTE: the rotor doesn't have to be fully centered in the T-zone, since it does not govern engine timing.
g. Install the 12 engine cover screws, kickstart lever, oil pump, distributor cap and gasket, and oil pump cover.

Bulletin#: 73 H-4
Date: Dec. 5, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H1
Subject: Testing H1 generator rotor

Action taken:

Resistance between the slip rings should be between 3.5 and 5.5 ohms. Resistance between the core (center) of the rotor and either slip ring should be infinite. A test for defects under load requires setting tester (Kawasaki's tester) to 12A and inserting red lead into "+12A" hole. Connect read lead to the positive terminal on a six volt battery. A 12 volt battery will damage the rotor. Connect negative battery lead to a rotor slip ring. Momentarily connect black lead to the other slip ring. If the rotor rises to 1.1-1.7 amps, it is good. If it swings wildly, it is shorted. An alternate testy is to connect the leads from the six volt battery to each slip ring for 30 seconds, then measure resistance. If outside the acceptable range, the rotor is bad.

Bulletin#: 73 H-5
Date: Dec. 25, 1971
Bike(s) affected: H1B
Subject: H1B Air Cleaner Silencer

Action taken:

Some initial shipment H1B's were shipped without air silencers.  All H1B's are to be equipped with silencer #11016-004 and associated hardware.

Bulletin#: H-5
Date: Aug. 22, 1971
Bike(s) affected: H1
Subject: H1 Drive chain

Action taken:

After frame #42003 the H1 has a heavier duty drive chain, EK50SH-T, replacing DID50HDS. The new chain is part #92057-009, the old is part #92057-005. The master links are not interchangeable, and must be used with each chain. The new link is part #92058-015, the old is part #92058-12. The new chain is wider and requires the chain guard be mounted outside the swing arm dust cover cap. Failure to do so could cause the chain to catch and knock off the master link clip when the motorcycle is rolled backward.

Bulletin#: 73 H-6
Date: February 29, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H1, H2
Subject: Shop Manual Errors

Action taken:

Numerous corrections to be made to the H Series Shop Manual.

Bulletin#: 73 H-7
Date: March 28, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H1-B
Subject: Steering Damper

Action taken:

The disc brake equipped model H1-B has a 5-position adjustable telescopic hydraulic steering damper. The "stiffness" of steering damping can be increased by turning the damper knob to a higher number. With the damper in the #5 (hardest) position, the push-pull force can cause the damper rear frame stanchion to flex and bend.

A reinforced bracket must be installed to prevent flexing,  part #32056-012.

Use this procedure to install the bracket:

A. Remove the nut and lockwasher holding the steering damper to the frame stanchion.

B. Take out the right hand bolt and lockwasher from the horn bracket.

C. Fasten the long side of the reinforcing damper bracket to the frame with the horn bolt and lockwasher. NOTE: use a plain washer (Part #411B0800) over the new bracket and don't tighten the bolt completely yet.
D. Hold the other end of the bracket over the stanchion, insert the damper stud, and install the lockwasher and nut. Now, tighten the horn bolt and the damper nut.

Bulletin#: 73 H-8
Date: April 30, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H2
Subject: H2 engine mount shims

Action taken:

H2 motors can loosen in their frames, causing additional vibration and in extreme cases fracturing the engine mounts. The frame lugs have 1.0-1.5mm clearance with the engine mount bosses for easy removal. These lugs are meant to be pulled in by the mounting bolts. It has been found these lugs take a set, relieving tension on the mounting bolts. Engine mount shims must be used on H2's before H2-09082. Installation has been done at the factory for H2's after H2-09082. The rear shim is 38mm long, the front is 20mm long. When installing, check the clearances between the engine bosses and frame lugs. (Picture shows the bottom 2 mounts the ones to be checked.)  Insert the correct sized shims, and tighten the 10mm bolts to 25 lb-ft of torque, and the 8mm bolts to 15 lb-ft.
 

Bulletin#: 73 H-9
Date: May 17, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H2
Subject: H2 rectifier

Action taken:

An H2 not driven frequently may discharge the battery, because of a slight drain on the battery from two small resistors. A supplemental rectifier has been developed to stop this leakage. The new part, part #21061-014 must be installed on H2's through H2E-13265.  H2's H2E-13266 and up have this installed from the factory. (It is installed between the red lead from the regulator and the battery.)

Bulletin#: 73 H-10
Date: June 1, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H1
Subject: H1 rear wheel spokes

Action taken:

H1's after KAF-47245 use different rear wheel spokes to increase strength. 1969-71 H1's can break wheel spokes if pushed hard. The new spokes increase in gauge from #9 to #8 at the rear wheel.

Part numbers are as follows:

Bulletin#: 73 H-11
Date: Jun. 15, 1972
Bike(s) affected: H2
Subject: H2 Primary Pinion Nut

Action taken:

A knocking sound on H2's from the right engine cover sounds like a worn or loose clutch. The knocking is cause by play between the crankshaft, primary pinion, and woodruff key. The "crush" area of the lock washer is very small, so the pinion is relieved of nut tension, allowing it to twist on the crankshaft and hit the woodruff key. To correct the problem a new, larger 29mm nut (part #92016-043) has been used after H2E-05228 to replace the older 27mm nut. (Part #92016-028)